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Showing posts with label Beijing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Beijing. Show all posts

Friday, June 10, 2011

The Shoushan Zoo (壽山動物園)

We had a very long day of walking and sight-seeing yesterday! The stars finally aligned and we made it to the Shoushan Zoo. We were able to take the train to a certain point, then walked the rest of the way.

The first half of the walk was in the sun with no shade on a 34 degree day (the weather site said it “feels like 40”), and the second half of the walk was in the shade but uphill. My left arm is now so crispy red that it peels when I glance at it. My chest and nose are impressively red as well. I was relieved when we reached our destination.

Shoushan Zoo has received a lot of bad press over the past few years because of alleged mismanagement and poor conditions for the animals. In response to those allegations, Shoushan demonstrated in 2007 that the government funding provided to them was abysmal when compared with funding provided to the Taipei Zoo. Figures then showed that the Muzha Zoo in Taipei had an annual budget of NT $440 million and the Shoushan Zoo in Kaohsiung’s annual budget came in at approximately NT $14 million. Ouch. No wonder they were having problems.

The zoo was overhauled after that and while it still has less space and a smaller budget than Taipei, it seems to be doing a bit better. The entrance fee was very low and it was nice to wander through the grounds without having overpriced souvenirs and concessions shoved down our throats. Weekdays at any tourist attraction in Kaohsiung are usually very quiet and today was no exception. It was peaceful to snap photos and take our time with only the sound of piped-in flute music in the background.

We saw some pretty exciting highlights. I got within five feet of my favourite animal ever, the red panda. We also saw two male lions napping and cuddling which was adorable. The lone orangutan at the zoo approached the glass and rested his chin on a window ledge, staring at us sweetly and gazing at the camera while Brett took his photo.

Another cool yet scary thing was seeing a HUGE scary spider on its web. We were peering into one of the primate enclosures and I was about to steady myself by putting my hand RIGHT BESIDE HIM! He was NOT a part of the exhibit! After we both freaked out and I did an embarrassing scared little girl dance, Brett snapped some very cool photos, but it’s terrifying to think of more spiders just like that potentially moving into our apartment.

The absolute best part of the day, in my opinion, was when we went into the bird enclosure. It was the most authentic habitat in the zoo and was filled with ducks, beautiful tropical birds, an elegant stork who posed nicely for Brett, and over a dozen peafowl. A few of the peacocks were displaying their plumage as we walked through the enclosure, and I was very impressed by an albino peacock and peahen they had as well! I’ve never seen anything like it! Brett is going to post some photos below!

Something we thought was cute was how excited all the children at the zoo were when they saw us. A small boy, when held six inches from the staring orangutan’s face, was too preoccupied watching Brett to notice the posing primate. Little girls ran up and shouted “Hi! Hi! Hi!” and parents grinned and got their children to wave and say, “Bye-bye!” as we passed. We felt like part of the zoo exhibit ourselves!

After the zoo we went to nearby Lao Song Beef Noodle for dinner. We’ve heard a lot about beef noodles and beef noodle soup from Taiwanese and Canadians alike. These are apparently a signature dish in Taiwan and involve a lengthy seasoning and stewing process.

As this was our first experience with beef noodles, chose the straightforward, signature dish (which was only NT $110 per person or about $3.50 CAD) with medium noodles (vs thin or wide). B got the soup, and I chose to have mine “dry” with the broth on the side. They did have some soups that included organs and tripe, which probably would have been a lot like what we had in Beijing.

This is the best local food I have eaten here so far. The beef was so extremely tender and the noodles were thick, chewy, and perfectly cooked. The blend of seasonings used to make the thick broth was fantastic. The whole thing was covered with a liberal sprinkling of chopped spring onion as well. There were a variety of different seasonings and sauces on the table we could have used, but the dish was so flavourful already I couldn’t imagine needing to add anything else. We’re definitely going back and I’m going to remember to take a photo next time.

Oh and post script - I followed Brett’s suggestion to use a liberal amount of BioOil on my sunburn and it looks and feels way better today, though I am now going to have an embarrassingly stark farmer’s tan.

(Post post script - This is Brett here. Today, June 15th, I learnt that Shou shan means "Mt. Longevity". Thought it was worth adding to Amanda's post)

Tile Mosaic Mural
Alaskan Brown Bear
In 2007 one of the zoo's veterinarians accidentally gave a salt water crocodile antibiotics instead of anesthetic and then got the fright of their life when the crocodile bit their forearm off.
Hornbill
Yellow-billed stork
An Albino Peacock

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Wednesday, April 27th. Beijing.


Today, our last full day in Beijing, we decided to head to the Summer Palace. It was an absolutely resplendent day, we couldn’t have asked for better weather. Pictures attached. 

I think Amanda and I would agree that the Summer Palace was the highlight of Beijing for us. The buildings were very well maintained and the gardens through which you could wander were serene. 

Overlooking a large lake, we hired an electric four seater boat for an hour and took to the waters for an escape from the crowds. While close to one shoreline we were able to see and overhear an older Chinese man strolling along the lake front path singing beautifully – albeit, to us, unintelligibly. 

In the evening we headed down to two different “snack street markets” just off of Wangfujing Street. Both markets contained a veritable plethora of things no westerner would ever think to put in their mouth. Scorpions, larvae, tarantulas, sea horses, lamb testicles, heart (of all different sizes), whole deep fried bird, starfish, lizard. All above were skewered and in many cases these were skewered alive and not killed until cooked right before your eyes. 

We happened to overhear an American tourist ask one of the vendors “what is seahorse good for?!?” to which the vendor replied “good for big penis!!!”.  


It was a great experience to see with our own eyes and we are grateful to our friend Janice for recommending both the Summer Palace and Snack Street, neither of which disappointed.

The Summer Palace
The Summer Palace
The Summer Palace
Boating at the Summer Palace
The Summer Palace
The Summer Palace
The Summer Palace
Wangfujing "Snack Street"
R1C1 Lizard. R1C2 Larvae. R1C3 Starfish. R2C1 Tarantulas. R2C2 Large Scorpions. R2C3 More Larvae. R3C1 Seahorses. R3C2&3 Small Scorpions.
Dong'anmen "Snack Street"

Tuesday, April 26, More Beijing.


This morning we were picked up by Beijing Joe for our trip to the Great Wall! We had a brief photo op near the Olympic village and then were driven through some beautiful orchards to the Ming Tombs. 

The Ming Tombs, or the Underground Palace, were a bit disappointing. Brett describes it as more of a Ming “bunker”. The walls and floor had been refinished to feel like a warehouse and there wasn’t really much to see inside. Despite this, I was really impressed by the view from outside the structure. All you could see for miles was the tops of trees and misty mountains. Gorgeous. 

We spent the afternoon at the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall and it was so beautiful! Badaling is the more tourist-friendly than Mutianyu and I can see why. You have to climb a hill and a bunch of stairs just to get to the cable car to take you up to the wall. We asked Joe if it would be a good idea to walk up to the wall but he said it was a 50 minute switchback hike and we were under a time crunch. The Great Wall was very cool, it’s just too bad we happened to go on a very windy and rainy day! 
 
After the Great Wall we were driven back through some small villages and quiet countryside to the city to catch an acrobatics show! We were both really impressed by all the crazy-talented acrobats (and by the vending machines full of cold beer!).

Bird's Nest & Aquatics Centre
Ming Tombs Gardens
Ming Tombs Gardens
Lunch before the Great Wall
Cable car up to Tower 18.
Mutianyu Section of the Great Wall
The Great Wall

Monday, April 25 (Mao money mo problems)

Flying into Beijing was my nightmare. If this blog were mine alone, it would be called the Nauseous Traveler. We had to go through about 45 minutes of severe turbulence before finally touching down. I hadn’t been so airsick since a flight to Disneyland in the fifth grade when I threw up so much the guy across the aisle started sympathy puking. At least on the Beijing flight there were a dozen other people throwing up as well. Vindicated!

Note - Sorry about the awkward postdated blog entries for China, but now there’s tons to read over morning coffee or for those of you who need a time filler so you can avoid your job! (You know who you are).

Today is Forbidden City day! The Forbidden City (or Gugong) is awesome and something you should see if you’re in Beijing.

Entering the Forbidden City was interesting. There were huge, overwhelming crowds. Something we found funny was the security checkpoint at the entrance where you could voluntarily have your bag scanned... or not.

The FC is huge. So. Much. Walking. Every time we walked up another set of stairs to go through one of the “Gates” of the city, we would be surprised to see another gigantic courtyard. As Brett declared once we passed through our fourth or fifth gate, “Bloody hell, it does go on forever!” It was so beautiful though. Walking through places like that always makes me wonder about the people who used to live and work and do all their daily stuff there. So interesting!

Near the end of the Forbidden City we went into one of the side buildings to an art show. It was so tempting to buy the beautiful paintings on silk and rice paper! B and I agreed that if we were just on a regular vacation we definitely would have bought some artwork to take home, especially after a woman working at the exhibit laughed and said we were “baby face for not students, very cute”. I love China.

After that we hung out for a bit in Tienanmen Square where there were lots of soldiers around. Half of them were marching together and the rest were chatting in groups and taking photos with Mao’s portrait. One near the back of the marching group was holding a civilian's baby and he was laughing and making the baby wave at us as we exchanged smiles with him. It was a really cool moment. So far so good.

PS - I didn't know Mao was going to be on all the money! And fun fact, China's national flower is the peony which also flourishes in Alberta!




Monday, April 25th. Beijing.


These posts are backdated as we were not able to log onto blogspot while in Beijing. The Great Firewall of China is apparently not a fan of blogging!


Breakfast 

I’ll have two different kinds of tripe with that please

So our day yesterday got off to an adventurous start. Making our way down the main (somewhat touristy) Wangfujing Street we ventured off a busy but less touristy side street heading for the East entrance to the Forbidden City. We wandered for quite a while and given that we had a fairly light meal the evening before, we were definitely distracted / disoriented by our noses.

We passed by a few places that seemed clean, well kept, well established, with tourists sitting at tables on display in the window (a clever and deliberate placement I’m sure) but as we realized that we were getting closer and closer to the Forbidden City where we assumed the food would be very touristy and very overpriced, we decided to dart in the first place we could find that we felt capable of communicating with the proprietor.

In this case “communicating with the proprietor” amounted to pointing to pictures that were large and clearly laid out on the wall as the owners could not speak any English and we could not speak any practical mandarin for ordering food “off menu”. I decided to point to a large picture of what appeared to me to be rice vermicelli with pork and bok choy in a soup like broth. Amanda then pointed to the same.

In retrospect, I now understand the moment of hesitation on the owners face as he was probably thinking “do these Westerners really know what they’re ordering?”. Well we didn’t.

The large bowls we were presented did look to be the same as the picture, I am sure of that, but a more accurate description of the meal would be rice vermicelli noodles with bok choy and with slices of beef and two different kinds of tripe in spicy broth.

Honestly, I’m not even sure it was two types of tripe. There was definitely tripe and then there was something that was black/brown, and looked a bit like the tripe. I’ve no doubt that it was some kind of animal product.

 That aside, wanting not to offend, I ate down to the bottom of the bowl, leaving little behind. My verdict, tripe is not too bad, but never in my life will a day go by where I think to myself, mmmmm, I could really go for some tripe right about now.

Paying for the meal was a little awkward but it did provide me with an opportunity to practice some Lonely Planet handbook Mandarin - I’m sure the laughter was saved for after we left the restaurant! I ordered a coke for Amanda and me to share and our bill came to 41RMB, which is about $6CAD.

 
To The Forbidden City!

Getting from the restaurant was easy enough, apart from the terror of crossing through pedestrian intersections on roadways.

Pedestrian Safety Tip:
In Canada, Pedestrians will walk through an intersection without necessarily looking for traffic, even if they do see a car coming they will walk through the intersection expecting that traffic will stop for them.
In Beijing, Drivers will drive through intersections without necessarily looking for pedestrians, even if they do see pedestrians they will drive through the intersection expecting that pedestrians will get out of the way for them.

Canadian drivers with Beijing pedestrians would make for a pretty accident free combination. I can’t say the same would be the case with Beijing drivers and Canadian pedestrians!!!!

 
As far as the rest of our day goes I will defer to Amanda to provide the details…


Sunday, April 24th. Beijing.

These posts are backdated as we were not able to log onto blogspot while in Beijing. The Great Firewall of China is apparently not a fan of blogging!

So we landed safe and sound in Beijing. The flight was ok as far as can be expected. I was impressed by the airport in that it was very English friendly and easy to navigate.

Catching a cab was an interesting experience. It was immediately clear that the driver did not speak any English (fair enough!) but we had printed out our hotel address on a piece of paper in both Mandarin characters and English. Upon providing him with the piece of paper, there was an exchange of nods and we were off!

It took us about 90 minutes to reach our hotel in fairly heavy traffic. Most of the journey was on the motorway and there were a number of accidents to be seen on the side of the road on the way. Driving here is very aggressive and it is not at all uncommon for 2 cars to try to squeeze ahead of each other side by side in a single lane. Oh yes, and if you run out of lanes, just use the hard shoulder!

We were very pleased when we got to our hotel. It seems to be in a pretty (comparatively) pedestrianized area. Checking in was a little difficult, not because of any language issues, but because just as we got to the check-in counter a paid lobby performer started belting out some classical piano pieces not ten feet from where we were standing.  Consequently my exchange with the reception desk lady proceeded just as you would expect it to if there had been a language barrier - plenty of loud talking and numerous requests for each other to repeat themselves. Ha!!

Tomorrow we are off to Tienanmen Square and the Forbidden City. We will take lots of pictures!  

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Flights and Accommodations Booked!

After a lengthy visit with Shannon at Flight Centre and hours of combing through reviews of hostels, hotels, and tour companies, Boj and I have finished booking the first few weeks of our trek. After staying with Rob in Vancouver we’ll be spending four nights in Beijing at a hotel we booked through Expedia. We found a very helpful website called HostelWorld through which we’ve booked one hostel for the first week in Taipei, then two different hostels for the following two weeks in Kaohsiung. Our first two weeks in Kaohsiung will be spent searching for jobs - hopefully not on opposite ends of the city!

Exciting fact: Our first full day in Kaohsiung will be Cinco de Bojo (or B’s birthday, for those of you who don’t celebrate the 5th with enchiladas and margaritas).

I’m getting really excited about our short stay in Vancouver on the way to Asia. Van will be a good way to de-stress and ease myself into my homesickness, and I know B is really looking forward to catching up with his friends out there. I’m also excited to see my friend Laurel for the first time in over a year!

Beijing is exciting too, but way more intimidating and complicated to book. We’re thankful for consumer reviews at TripAdvisor and for our friend Janice who not only gave us tons of advice but who also lent us her copy of Lonely Planet: China. The hotel we’ve booked is apparently only five minutes away from the Forbidden City! Also, while reading about the things we should visit during our stay, we found the contact for an English-speaking driver in Beijing, BJ Joe! He will be our driver and tour guide for a full day at the Ming Tombs, the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall, the Olympic Village, and an acrobatics show.